Phulkari embroidery is the work of flowers beautifully done to get bright patterns and is an important part of Punjabi culture. This traditional art form has been passed down through generations among the women of Punjab. Phulkari embroidery is more than just a craft. It is a symbol of the Punjabi culture and its beautiful art style. With their artistic talent, the women tell and share their stories and emotions through their designs.
The Technique and Materials
The work by the flowers, known as the phulkari embroidery, is traditionally made using a technique in which a stitch called the darn stitch is used on the back of a tough cloth called khaddar. Colourful silk threads create bright and beautiful designs of flowers, geometric shapes, and scenes from daily life. Even though this embroidery has changed with time, its motive has always been the same: bringing Punjab women together and strengthening the community and bonds of family.
Historical Background
Phulkari originated in Punjab and was influenced by Central Asia. Persia has roots in Punjab, with influences from Central Asia and Persia where a similar type of art form existed, called Gulkari. Phulkari came in the 15th century and has had the beautiful design of famous stories of Punjab, such as the tragic love story of Heer Ranjha. Traditionally, phulkari was a personal art form not made for sale. Women embroidered for their use, sharing stories and songs and strengthening community bonds.
The craft or women of Punjab faced many challenges, especially during the Partition of India in 1947, which left behind or disturbed many traditional practices. Even after such problems, phulkari has always been an important part of Punjabi heritage.
Different Styles of Phulkari
Phulkari includes many styles, each with unique features and meanings:
- Bagh: This style has heavy embroidery covering the entire fabric that shows and symbolises abundance and beauty.
- Chope: It is used as a shawl. This style has a single-colour border and is often given as a wedding gift in Punjab and many parts of India by Punjabis.
- Darshan Dwar: These are designs that resemble buildings and are used in gurdwaras as a religious setting.
- Therma: This style is Simpler in design and is worn by older women and widows. That symbolises purity
- Bawan Bagh: A rare style with fifty-two different patterns and often serves as a sample of various designs.
These styles show the adaptability of a style that has been passed through generations and adapted by the new generation, as well as the creativity of phulkari embroidery, which allows women to express their feelings, their individual thoughts, and their cultural heritage.
The Embroidery Process
Making phulkari embroidery is a detailed and time-consuming process. Women stitch on the reverse side of the fabric or cloth and then count threads to form patterns without any stencil. This requires a lot of skills and patience, as each piece is unique and shows and also reflects the women’s personal touch.
The primary materials used are khaddar, touch cloth, fabric, and vibrant silk smooth threads. Common materials all women use include flowers, birds, and geometric shapes, each with its meaning.
For example, peacocks symbolise beauty, and wheat stalks show prosperity. Colors also hold importance, such as red, which is often chosen for its beauty and success in Punjabi culture.
Bringing Back Phulkari
Recently, many people have shown interest in phulkari embroidery. Many organisations and artists are working hard to preserve this traditional craft and encourage women to practice phulkari as a means of earning and powering up the economy. This comeback of the Phulkari has led to the mixup of traditional techniques and modern designs, making Phulkari beautifully stay in contemporary fashion.
Phulkari embroidery is more than just an art used for decoration. It is the rich culture of Punjab and the talent of Punjabi women. It is a form that shows creativity, traditions, and community bonds, all of which play a vital role. Phulkari keeps the stories and feelings of Punjabi women alive and makes it a beautiful part of their culture that has passed through generations and lasted through the years.
