The Technique and Materials
The work by the flowers, known as the phulkari embroidery, is traditionally made using a technique in which a stitch called the darn stitch is used on the back of a tough cloth called khaddar. Colourful silk threads create bright and beautiful designs of flowers, geometric shapes, and scenes from daily life. Even though this embroidery has changed with time, its motive has always been the same: bringing Punjab women together and strengthening the community and bonds of family.Historical Background
Phulkari originated in Punjab and was influenced by Central Asia. Persia has roots in Punjab, with influences from Central Asia and Persia where a similar type of art form existed, called Gulkari. Phulkari came in the 15th century and has had the beautiful design of famous stories of Punjab, such as the tragic love story of Heer Ranjha. Traditionally, phulkari was a personal art form not made for sale. Women embroidered for their use, sharing stories and songs and strengthening community bonds. The craft or women of Punjab faced many challenges, especially during the Partition of India in 1947, which left behind or disturbed many traditional practices. Even after such problems, phulkari has always been an important part of Punjabi heritage.Different Styles of Phulkari
Phulkari includes many styles, each with unique features and meanings:- Bagh: This style has heavy embroidery covering the entire fabric that shows and symbolises abundance and beauty.
- Chope: It is used as a shawl. This style has a single-colour border and is often given as a wedding gift in Punjab and many parts of India by Punjabis.
- Darshan Dwar: These are designs that resemble buildings and are used in gurdwaras as a religious setting.
- Therma: This style is Simpler in design and is worn by older women and widows. That symbolises purity
- Bawan Bagh: A rare style with fifty-two different patterns and often serves as a sample of various designs.